Archive for February, 2009

2009 Perennial Plant of the Year
Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’

     And the winner is……… an ornamental grass with very dramatic vivid golden blades that should do pretty well in most of our cold climate area. It is rated to zone 5 so many of you will have to plant it with some protection in mind. Soil should be amended with LIBERAL amounts of manure free organic compost to help with survival when cold winter weather invades our area. An easterly location with some shade would be advised to avoid sunburn of foliage. This location should lend to the color presentation. This clump grass will reach a height of about a foot high and fit very nicely in front borders for visual impact. You might also want to try it in glazed earthen pottery….. the rustic red glaze would certainly make a very dramatic presentation!!! The addition of blue foliage hostas will further add to your landscape statement. The last compliment I could make to this addition to the prestigious lineup of “Perennial Plant of the Year” designations would be the graceful dance the slender blades do as they dance in the late evening’s breeze.

     Redmond Greenhouse should have ample supplies of this new perennial addition so you may want to start planning where you would like to make your plantings………..

     One of the best early springtime performers for our cold climate area has got to be the super hardy, rough, and tough flowering crabapples. Offered up in several named varieties I don’t think this tree will ever let you down when it comes to early season excitement. From dramatic whites to pink and red the colors are not only long lasting but usually fragrant as well. Easy to prune and maintain this species of trees are perfect for larger containers as well as planting directly into the landscape.

      Offering year around specter the gardener will get color in the spring, draping green leaved branches in the summer, possible small berries and good leaf color in the fall, as well as dramatic branch structure and possible intriguing fruit still clinging to the branches.

     The trees once established are very drought tolerant and should give many many years of carefree maintenance. If you have deer in your area you will probably have to do a little protection such as “Deer Off” or other repellents. As the tree matures many a gardener will slip out and remove a few branches for super early indoor forcing.

     The planting hole should be at least three feet across and two feet deep. Amend the removed soil with ample organic compost and a good organic fertilizer such as our “Cold Climate” blend with microbes and mychorizae. Water in well and all should be good to go. Redmond Greenhouse has several varieties in stock that have overwintered and are just looking for the perfect backyard to call home! Plant them early and they will bloom in your backyard not in our nursery display bed.

      Well that about wraps it up for now….. It has been a pretty mild winter so far. We could use a little more moisture if wishes could be granted. Happy February and we shall chat again in the early month of March……………. Doug

I have got quite a few calls of late asking what can I do to stop the sap run after I pruned my maple tree. I would recommend no pruning on leafy trees at this time of the year until they start to leaf or flower out. If pruned at this time of the (dormant) year you will possibly have to deal with pulsing sap from the wounds.

In regards to your rose bushes the same advice should be heeded. DON”T. On roses I would suggest wait until at least May…(at the earliest). If it turns very cold after you prune your roses in our cold zone area the remaining canes can turn ‘dead” black and the rose will probably be lost…………

In conversations of great gardens and cool plants, the conversation always seems to include a question or two concerning “fragrance” in the garden. As with spectacular looking store-bought veggies that are short on flavor, so it is with so many of the shrubs that are introduced……. where is the fragrance? With this thought in mind , I decided it might be of interest to visit this topic and share a few favorites that not only will bring GREAT scents to your garden but the butterflies and hummingbirds that will make you and other garden viewers smile……

Caryopteris: Dark Knight is a favorite of mine not only because it is fragrant but because of its stellar midnight blue flowers. Filled with fragrance this mid to late summer bloomer is sure to be a crowd pleaser. Honey bees will also find this rough tough plant a true dandy.

Azaleas: Northern Light series of this very hardy plant species will give your early spring nose a royal treat. Multiple colors to choose from this plant has surprised many a gardener. I find it will do the best on an easterly exposure with AMPLE compost worked into the planting site.

Roses: Ahhhhhhhhhhh what would a garden be without a rose or two. Not only do many of the old variety roses carry a heavy early morning scent, but many of the newer introductions. It really pays to do a little research before you grab the shovel. You will also have to address the issue of deer in your particular area unless you have a hefty tear-wiping tissue in your garden tool box. Fourth of July (red and white re-blooming climber) Double Delight (Red and white) Mr Lincoln (DEEP Red) Sentimental (Purple white floribunda) Sun Sprinkles (yellow miniature)

Witch Hazel: I had to mention this plant because of two important aspects. First of all, it will not only bloom when all the other plants in your garden are still late winter sleeping, but the unique color and shape of this bloom will grab your closer inspection. On top of that, if you are not paying attention to your garden at this time of the year you will miss the show and that would be such a shame. Mild fragrace will tickle your nose if you move up close.

Cystisus: Many a gardeners nose will give off a wild sneeze with this  early spring blooming plant. Usually upright with a grass type branch structure this evergreen bloomer will knock the fragrance bottle off the shelf. Colors of yellow, lilac, and purple are the most common. They will bloom for a long period if weather permits. Lydia broom is a low spreading shrub form and is the number one choice because of it’s electric yellow blooms.

Deutzia: It is rather sad this plant does not capture more attention. With its very special cream colored blooms late spring this species should have more respect in garden centers as well as local gardens. You may have to do a little searching to find of of the many varieties but you will be rewarded when it does it’s thing in your garden.

Mock Orange: The absolute “knock out” fragrance of this GREAT plant has made its presence in gardens for a long long time and as soon as you dip your nose into one of the early spring blooms I am sure you will be off to the local nursery to make your purchase. From single white to doubles the flowers will light up and capture the gardens attention!

Butterfly Bush: I suppose this family of dramatic shrubs is very well known by gardeners around the community but I must add my two-bits worth of knowledge. Deer resistant, drought tolerant, and bloom guaranteed has this species the favorite of many a garden. From yellow to pink to dark purple the long spire type blooms will forever capture your fragrant chasing nose. There is rumor that the Oregon Dept. of Agriculture is trying to bane this plant because it can get aggressive in the western area of our state……. I HOPE NOT for the sake of central and eastern Oregon gardeners and landscapers.

Lilacs: What can I say……….. a garden without a lilac in cold climate areas would be like a kid not smiling when he sees his first sunflower bloom! From dwarf types (Miss Kim) to the old fashioned homestead purple this family has treated the earliest settlers with their sweet fragrance. Do note however that there are a few species that are almost scentless………. Some lilacs are also a sucker-less………..

Daphne: The “Rock Daphne” has got to be the choice of gardeners in cold climate areas. A low evergreen rounded shrub that will take your breath away when you smell its sweet hot pink blooms. May not be easy to find but well worth the search. The “Summerset” and the Carol Macki” are deciduous and upright versions that are equaly hardy with pale pink fragrant blooms.

Viburnums: This family is very large with over one hundred of named species. Many are not hardy so make sure you check with your local plantsman at the nursery to make sure you make the proper choice. Korean Spice is a great choice in my books, as well as Pink Dawn…….. my oh my is all I can say. Plant one of these and share the fragrance and you will have a friend forever!!!!!!!!!!!! Planted on the east side will really add to the show.

Honeysuckle Vine: The “Hall’s” honeysuckle is one of the finest there is. Fast growth, pale yellow blooms, and intoxicating fragrance will be all yours when you plant one of these. I planted one of them by our bedroom window and when it comes into bloom…………. Aphids can sometimes be a problem so make sure you keep watch. Air traffic control may also have to be set-up to help with hummingbird navigation!

I do believe that I have talked to more folks this year that intend to grow a garden for the first time. Sales of garden seed are skyrocketing along with an increase of questions…….. How do I get started. Lets take a look at the simple steps involved.

List of possible ingredients: Fresh garden seed. Special seed starting soil. Sterile shallow seed starting containers. Humidity dome. Heat mat. Plastic labels and water proof pen. A garden diary for tracking your work. Trigger or pump-up sprayer. Grow light. Small transplanting pots. Good organic soilless potting soil. A smile and a “can-do” attitude.

Lets get started………….. Find a location in the house that you can claim as your seed starting and indoor gardening area. The temperature should be fifty to sixty degrees. Plug in your heat mat and place your selected seed flat filled with seedling soil on top. Redmond Greenhouse has plastic flats (we call them 10 20’s) as well as plastic inserts that fit neatly inside. The inserts are made up of traditional six packs which intern will provide you with individual compartments to start most early seed varieties. Having individual compartments helps eliminate the possibility of spreading disease. Fill to the top with the special seed starting soil and moisten WELL with warm water. The reason for using this special soil is because of its sterile nature (no bad things or contamination), its small particulate size (covers the seed well), plus it is very low in ph thus eliminating the possibility of “damping off” a common disease that can take out your new crop of seedlings. Sow multiple seeds in each individual cell of your container and MAKE SURE TO MARK THE VARIETY with the water-proof pen along with the date. The rule of thumb when it comes time to cover the seed is to cover the seed depth with in relationship to the diameter of the seed. A garden pea would be covered with an eight of an inch of seedling soil, and a carrot seed would be just barely “dusted” with soil. Since the subsurface soil is already moist all you have to do now is moisten the top surface. Use the spray bottle with warm water and gently mist until well saturated. Cover the 1020 flat holding the insert filled with your freshly seeded project with the clear plastic dome. This dome will help hold humidity and hasten the germination. YOU MUST CHECK YOU PROJECT EVERY DAY to watch for adequate moisture and seed germination. As soon as you see good germination you need to “prop” the plastic dome up to allow for air circulation across the top of the soil. The only problem with this is that if you have sown multiple varieties of seed they will not all germinate at the same time. However having individual flats of each variety of seed you sow would require you to open a small garden center with a BIG greenhouse. Remove from the heat mat and place under a grow light in a cooler area (around fourty to fifty degrees will ensure VERY TOUGH SEEDLINGS. The grow light will ensure the seedling don’t “stretch” looking for light. Redmond greenhouse carries an assortment of good seed starting and growing lights. We even offer a “special order” program that will save you at least 20% off our cataloge price. Once you see the second set of leaves ( the first set of leaves you see are called seedling or false leaves) it is time to transplant into individual containers that have been filled with the organic potting mix. Moisten well with warm water and make a hole in the center large enough to acomadate the new seedlings roots. Carefuly remove the seedlings one at a time from the seedling cell pack holding it by the seedling leaves NOT THE STEM.  Lower the roots into the plants new home and then carefully cover the roots. Water them with the spray bottle and return them to their grow site under the light. In about a weeks time you may fertilize the plants with a half strenth liquid fertilizer. I like the product called Earth Juice “Grow” or “Bloom”.

Growing them in a cool area with the grow light is very criticle as it will help make sure your seedlings are short and hardy not leggy and weak. An inexpensive cold frame will help with the transition to the great outdoors. Watch the frost and protect from direct sun for a few days and you should be off and running. I realize this is a compressed ‘how to”, but I hope it helps. Email me with specific questions or stop by the Redmond Greenhouse for a little one on one consulting. Happy Sowing and Good Luck.       See ya in the garden…. Doug