In conversations of great gardens and cool plants, the conversation always seems to include a question or two concerning “fragrance” in the garden. As with spectacular looking store-bought veggies that are short on flavor, so it is with so many of the shrubs that are introduced……. where is the fragrance? With this thought in mind , I decided it might be of interest to visit this topic and share a few favorites that not only will bring GREAT scents to your garden but the butterflies and hummingbirds that will make you and other garden viewers smile……

Caryopteris: Dark Knight is a favorite of mine not only because it is fragrant but because of its stellar midnight blue flowers. Filled with fragrance this mid to late summer bloomer is sure to be a crowd pleaser. Honey bees will also find this rough tough plant a true dandy.

Azaleas: Northern Light series of this very hardy plant species will give your early spring nose a royal treat. Multiple colors to choose from this plant has surprised many a gardener. I find it will do the best on an easterly exposure with AMPLE compost worked into the planting site.

Roses: Ahhhhhhhhhhh what would a garden be without a rose or two. Not only do many of the old variety roses carry a heavy early morning scent, but many of the newer introductions. It really pays to do a little research before you grab the shovel. You will also have to address the issue of deer in your particular area unless you have a hefty tear-wiping tissue in your garden tool box. Fourth of July (red and white re-blooming climber) Double Delight (Red and white) Mr Lincoln (DEEP Red) Sentimental (Purple white floribunda) Sun Sprinkles (yellow miniature)

Witch Hazel: I had to mention this plant because of two important aspects. First of all, it will not only bloom when all the other plants in your garden are still late winter sleeping, but the unique color and shape of this bloom will grab your closer inspection. On top of that, if you are not paying attention to your garden at this time of the year you will miss the show and that would be such a shame. Mild fragrace will tickle your nose if you move up close.

Cystisus: Many a gardeners nose will give off a wild sneeze with this  early spring blooming plant. Usually upright with a grass type branch structure this evergreen bloomer will knock the fragrance bottle off the shelf. Colors of yellow, lilac, and purple are the most common. They will bloom for a long period if weather permits. Lydia broom is a low spreading shrub form and is the number one choice because of it’s electric yellow blooms.

Deutzia: It is rather sad this plant does not capture more attention. With its very special cream colored blooms late spring this species should have more respect in garden centers as well as local gardens. You may have to do a little searching to find of of the many varieties but you will be rewarded when it does it’s thing in your garden.

Mock Orange: The absolute “knock out” fragrance of this GREAT plant has made its presence in gardens for a long long time and as soon as you dip your nose into one of the early spring blooms I am sure you will be off to the local nursery to make your purchase. From single white to doubles the flowers will light up and capture the gardens attention!

Butterfly Bush: I suppose this family of dramatic shrubs is very well known by gardeners around the community but I must add my two-bits worth of knowledge. Deer resistant, drought tolerant, and bloom guaranteed has this species the favorite of many a garden. From yellow to pink to dark purple the long spire type blooms will forever capture your fragrant chasing nose. There is rumor that the Oregon Dept. of Agriculture is trying to bane this plant because it can get aggressive in the western area of our state……. I HOPE NOT for the sake of central and eastern Oregon gardeners and landscapers.

Lilacs: What can I say……….. a garden without a lilac in cold climate areas would be like a kid not smiling when he sees his first sunflower bloom! From dwarf types (Miss Kim) to the old fashioned homestead purple this family has treated the earliest settlers with their sweet fragrance. Do note however that there are a few species that are almost scentless………. Some lilacs are also a sucker-less………..

Daphne: The “Rock Daphne” has got to be the choice of gardeners in cold climate areas. A low evergreen rounded shrub that will take your breath away when you smell its sweet hot pink blooms. May not be easy to find but well worth the search. The “Summerset” and the Carol Macki” are deciduous and upright versions that are equaly hardy with pale pink fragrant blooms.

Viburnums: This family is very large with over one hundred of named species. Many are not hardy so make sure you check with your local plantsman at the nursery to make sure you make the proper choice. Korean Spice is a great choice in my books, as well as Pink Dawn…….. my oh my is all I can say. Plant one of these and share the fragrance and you will have a friend forever!!!!!!!!!!!! Planted on the east side will really add to the show.

Honeysuckle Vine: The “Hall’s” honeysuckle is one of the finest there is. Fast growth, pale yellow blooms, and intoxicating fragrance will be all yours when you plant one of these. I planted one of them by our bedroom window and when it comes into bloom…………. Aphids can sometimes be a problem so make sure you keep watch. Air traffic control may also have to be set-up to help with hummingbird navigation!

I do believe that I have talked to more folks this year that intend to grow a garden for the first time. Sales of garden seed are skyrocketing along with an increase of questions…….. How do I get started. Lets take a look at the simple steps involved.

List of possible ingredients: Fresh garden seed. Special seed starting soil. Sterile shallow seed starting containers. Humidity dome. Heat mat. Plastic labels and water proof pen. A garden diary for tracking your work. Trigger or pump-up sprayer. Grow light. Small transplanting pots. Good organic soilless potting soil. A smile and a “can-do” attitude.

Lets get started………….. Find a location in the house that you can claim as your seed starting and indoor gardening area. The temperature should be fifty to sixty degrees. Plug in your heat mat and place your selected seed flat filled with seedling soil on top. Redmond Greenhouse has plastic flats (we call them 10 20’s) as well as plastic inserts that fit neatly inside. The inserts are made up of traditional six packs which intern will provide you with individual compartments to start most early seed varieties. Having individual compartments helps eliminate the possibility of spreading disease. Fill to the top with the special seed starting soil and moisten WELL with warm water. The reason for using this special soil is because of its sterile nature (no bad things or contamination), its small particulate size (covers the seed well), plus it is very low in ph thus eliminating the possibility of “damping off” a common disease that can take out your new crop of seedlings. Sow multiple seeds in each individual cell of your container and MAKE SURE TO MARK THE VARIETY with the water-proof pen along with the date. The rule of thumb when it comes time to cover the seed is to cover the seed depth with in relationship to the diameter of the seed. A garden pea would be covered with an eight of an inch of seedling soil, and a carrot seed would be just barely “dusted” with soil. Since the subsurface soil is already moist all you have to do now is moisten the top surface. Use the spray bottle with warm water and gently mist until well saturated. Cover the 1020 flat holding the insert filled with your freshly seeded project with the clear plastic dome. This dome will help hold humidity and hasten the germination. YOU MUST CHECK YOU PROJECT EVERY DAY to watch for adequate moisture and seed germination. As soon as you see good germination you need to “prop” the plastic dome up to allow for air circulation across the top of the soil. The only problem with this is that if you have sown multiple varieties of seed they will not all germinate at the same time. However having individual flats of each variety of seed you sow would require you to open a small garden center with a BIG greenhouse. Remove from the heat mat and place under a grow light in a cooler area (around fourty to fifty degrees will ensure VERY TOUGH SEEDLINGS. The grow light will ensure the seedling don’t “stretch” looking for light. Redmond greenhouse carries an assortment of good seed starting and growing lights. We even offer a “special order” program that will save you at least 20% off our cataloge price. Once you see the second set of leaves ( the first set of leaves you see are called seedling or false leaves) it is time to transplant into individual containers that have been filled with the organic potting mix. Moisten well with warm water and make a hole in the center large enough to acomadate the new seedlings roots. Carefuly remove the seedlings one at a time from the seedling cell pack holding it by the seedling leaves NOT THE STEM.  Lower the roots into the plants new home and then carefully cover the roots. Water them with the spray bottle and return them to their grow site under the light. In about a weeks time you may fertilize the plants with a half strenth liquid fertilizer. I like the product called Earth Juice “Grow” or “Bloom”.

Growing them in a cool area with the grow light is very criticle as it will help make sure your seedlings are short and hardy not leggy and weak. An inexpensive cold frame will help with the transition to the great outdoors. Watch the frost and protect from direct sun for a few days and you should be off and running. I realize this is a compressed ‘how to”, but I hope it helps. Email me with specific questions or stop by the Redmond Greenhouse for a little one on one consulting. Happy Sowing and Good Luck.       See ya in the garden…. Doug

If you have junipers in your landscape, January and February are perfect times to do a little corrective pruning and shaping. By doing so at this time of the year when they are dormant as soon as new growth emerges in the spring it will hide any brown edges left by pruners and hedge shearers. Remember to remove no more than one third of the overall size of the plant. Try to keep the base of the plant a little wider than the top so as to reduce browning and thinning due to lack of light.

Yew plants, Alberta spruce, and boxwood will also benefit from this time of the year pruning as well. If you can achieve more pruning with hand pruners versus hedge shearers you will minimize the brown edges on leaves and needles. Upon completion you may want to side-dress with a systemic insecticide as a preventative for summers spider mites and scale. If you use granular organic fertilizer (and I hope you are) now would be an excellent time for this chore. Our (Redmond Greenhouse) “Cold Climate” blend would be one of the best choices and would last the entire season. The microbes and mychorizae in this selection will help feed the soil and extend good drought tolerance and extended root systems. If any of your evergreens are showing signs of drying or faded greens you might want to apply a foliar spray of “Wilt-Proof”. This product has proven itself year after year guarding against our cold winters dehydration.  

Hope all is well as January starts to wind down……… Spring is on the way… Doug

A little windy as the new day emerged on the first day of January but other than that the weather was wonderful. One chore I found myself doing was taking down a few holiday decorations and lights to store for another year. I also checked on my garden celery and found it still growing and doing well………. not bad considering it got as cold as it did. I don’t harvest it like traditional stalks of celery, I simply clip away at the bushy base and return to the kitchen with a handful of leafy stalky greens. Very tasty with stews and winter soups. I have also been able to continue harvest on some of my kitchen herbs that are planted in a rock garden close to the house……… my oh my they are so tasty. You might want to give a few a try sometime. Many including chives, parsley, thyme, and rosemary seem to do quite well if give the proper spot for winter protection. Still enjoying my collection of winter squash that I grew this past summer. Just keeping them in a cool, dry, dark place and all is well. Won’t be long until its time to sow a few seeds……….. ahhhhhhhhhhh I can hardly wait. Hope this post finds you healthy, warm, and smiling…..

Ahhhhhhhhhhh what a wonderful December this has been. Warmer than usual days and lots of sunshine. A little short on rainfall but hopefully we will get some form of moisture in the near future. Make sure you pay attention to your newly planted bulbs as well as this seasons newly planted shrubs and trees. As  many of you have purged your water systems a while back, a garden hose may need to be brought into action. You may also want to pay attention to plants that are under eves as well as under dense evergreen trees. If you have not yet fertilized your landscape and lawn the time is still perfect. Using our “Cold Climate” as well as our “Cascade Natural” will ensure a spectacular take-off in the spring of 2009. We (Redmond Greenhouse) still have plenty of bags of this great organic fertilizer as well as stock of “dormant” spray, “copper” spray and lots of the deer repellent “Deer Off”. We still have a few flower bulbs such as tulips and daffodils, and maybe even a few crocus and “Crown Imperial”……  On the holiday side we have increased our inventory of living Christmas trees if that is a “green” direction that you are thinking about. In articles I read within our industry, the sale and interest in living trees is way up. Members of the spruce family offer the best choice in terms of hardiness, drought and deer resistance, and livability. An application of “Wilt-Proof” will offer additional protection from dehydration as well as reduce allergies. Works great on cut trees and wreaths as well. Don’t mulch in your roses to much until the ground is ‘well” frozen (probably January some time) as this practice could trap in heat thus increasing the probability of winter loss. Over in the water garden make sure you have a pond heater in use as it will allow toxic gasses to escape. You might also want to put in some of Microbe Lifts “Winterizer”. Many folks have used this with great success in reducing algae and “pond bottom” debris. Keep your bird bath heater working as winter is one of toughest times for wild birds to find water. Just remember…………. a bird in the winter garden is a bug you won’t see in the spring…………….. Happy Winter……….. Doug

As the season comes to a close there are a few things you can do to your lawn to make sure it winters over as best possible. Topping the list would be to apply an organic fertilizer (I would recommend “Cascade Natural” blended nutrients with microbes and mychorizae) at the rate of 25# per 1000 sq. ft.. Through the winter the granules will break down and begin to do their thing getting your lawn ready for the 2009 season. Next in line would be to edge your lawn followed by an application of “Corn Weed Blocker” (an organic weed pre-emergent) around the edges, which in turn should be top-dressed with about an inch of organic compost. This practice will stop your lawn from creeping back out into the area you just edged….. It does work and work well!!!! Drop me an email if you need additional instruction. Redmond Greenhouse carries both the fertilizer and the organic weed pre-emergentventer. Next in line if  you have had vole problems in the past (little trails that show up in the lawn as the snow melts and the lawn re-appears as the 2009 season warms) I would recommend you apply a mole/vole repellent… “Mole Go”. Concerning questions as to if you should thatch or aerate at this time of the year, my answer is NO. In cold climates such as ours that task is best left to the late spring season as the lawn really begins to get green and growing. Make sure to keep dropping leaves off the lawn as they will suffocate the crown of grass if left throughout the winter season. Continue to mow the lawn as long as the season keeps warm. The grass should be kept about two” to no longer that three inches for the winter time. Blades of grass that are left to long during the long winter season will be slow to recover. Well, that about wraps it up for late season lawn care. Hope this helps and has your lawn looking good not only through the cold season but looking green and healthy as the spring arrives.  Happy Gardening……….. Doug

It may seem like all is slowing down in the garden, but I would like to take this time to let you know it is a GREAT time of the year to apply a weed pre-emergent to all your landscape beds and borders. Two products that I think will offer you some great releif for the 2009 season would be “Weed and Grass Preventer” (Treflan) and an organic granular version “Corn Weed Blocker”. Both should be applied to areas once they have been cleaned up and free of existing weeds and grasses. Both may also be applied right up the the edge of your lawn after you have created a clean edge. This practice will help eliminate “lawn creep” into beds and borders. Neither of these products will harm perennials, annuals, or trees and shrubs. The Corn Weed Blocker will even add a touch of organic fertilizer…… now that is a true deal. I have found it best to cover the granular product with a little layer of bark mulch of weed free compost. Then water the area and celebrate. Timely chores done in the fall of the season will yeild a better garden in the spring.

I might also add that an applicatiion (25# per 500 sq. ft.) of our (Redmond Greenhouse) “Cold Climate” blended fertilizer covered by at least 3″ of organic compost over ALL annual and vegetable beds will set the tone for fantastic success in you 2009 garden. The weather is still fine and these are projects worth doing. If you have any specific questions, please don’t hesitate to e-mail me at info@coldzonegardening.com

Happy Late Autumn…………. Doug

Well I must say the winds have caused the time to breeze quickly by. My wife and I made it over the Cascade pass the other day and hand selected and tagged our annual supply of Noble, Frasier, and Nordmad fir trees that Redmond Greenhouse will be offering as cut Christmas trees this Holiday season. The trees look spectacular as they always do. Something about the high elevation at Silver Creek Falls lends itself to wonderful growing condition which yeild #1 trees. Combine that with the fact that Larry and his wife will not cut my trees until after Thanksgiving gives these trees the freshness our customers have relied upon.

We will also be offering our annual “Mail Order” fresh evergreen wreath program again. Many of you have come to rely upon this special gift to give all of your freinds and family a truly unique and value based gift. We are already taking orders and ship dates for this offering from Redmond Greenhouse.

On another topic Redmond Greenhouse will be having another Holiday Festival……  “Cranberry and Pine Boughs” an open house and event that showcases this special time of the year. We will help the Redmond Fire Dept. kick off their annual canned food and toy drive as well as offer a seminar on table centerpieces and festive wreaths. There will be specials, drawings, and other related activities of celebration. You are invited and we hope to see you there. The date is November 22nd. There will also be craft booths of various types to help fill out your day.

As always I hope all is well in your garden and landscape……….. Happy late Autumn…. Doug

As the leaves begin to fall it is time to give some of your plants a little preventative maintenance. All fruit trees, cane berries, and roses would benefit with an application of “dormant” spray. This natural oil based spray will suffocate late season insects as well as thier eggs thus reducing the population for the season of 2009. You might also give a spray to your lilac if you have had bloom problems in the past spring. Liquid copper spray combined with “spreader sticker” will help prevent disease that inhibits glorious and fragrant late spring blooms. Now is the time. Just make sure temperatures are above fourty degrees and there is no rain predicted for the next twelve hours.

The days are getting a little shorter and the nights can sometimes be frosty all of which can set the tone for Autumns grand color parade. If your garden and landscape is a little scant on potential “color stars” then you might want to grab a shovel and plant a few of the reliable species. Burning Bush is always a good canidate as are the Sumacs. Red Twig Dogwood shrubs will not only give you fabulous foliage but the red stems will be a standout when the snow comes. Many species of the Spirea family will offer you intriging yellow and orange hues. Ornamental grasses such as the Miscanthus will add dramatic upright texture. If you are looking for a larger shrub look no farther than one called “Red Rhapsody” maple. An introduction from Monrovia Nursery that is more resistant to disease than common Amur or Flame maples. In the perennial flower department you should check out the array of Coral Bells, late blooming Coreopsis, and Joe Pie Weed. Annual favorites would include Violas, Pansies, varieties of Hebe, and “tougher than nails” Asters. Always improve the soil with good organic compost and a few cups of “Cold Climate” organic fertilizer before planting. Enjoy this wonderful time of the year and Happy Planting…. Doug